For a while now, I’ve been thinking about how London can feel like such a gray, gloomy city, and somehow, it found me living here at a moment in my life when I was feeling a little gray and gloomy myself. Maybe that’s exactly how it was supposed to be. Maybe I needed it. Sometimes melancholy takes the most unexpected, beautiful forms.
And you have to let yourself embrace them.
One of the things I love most about living here is being able to escape the city for the day. London has amazing train connections, so within a couple of hours you can find yourself somewhere that feels like a completely different world.
Seven Sisters is one of those places.
White chalk cliffs rising above the English Channel, endless stretches of blue, white and green, wind, seagulls and that very English countryside scenery you usually only see in movies.
So, what exactly is Seven Sisters?
Seven Sisters is a spectacular series of seven white chalk cliffs along the Sussex coast, within the South Downs National Park.
Being there is incredible. You walk along the coast, up and down the trails, watching the landscape change with every step. And then, from different angles, those massive white cliffs suddenly appear in front of you.
I had been wanting to see this place for a long time. I’d seen it in so many photos, and finally getting to experience it in real life felt like checking a big one off my list.
How to get there from London
The route I recommend is to start at London Victoria and take the train to Seaford, Sussex, and then, after completing the hike, return to London from Eastbourne to London Victoria.
I actually recommend doing it this way because you get to walk the route in a much more natural order: you start on one side and finish on the other, instead of having to turn around and retrace your steps.
I left London at around 8:30 a.m. and got back at around 8 p.m., so this is definitely a full-day experience. Once you arrive at Seaford, the hike begins and suddenly everything feels huge. Everything feels pretty open, wild and low-key.
And that’s kind of the whole point.
What to know before you go
First: check the wind forecast
The landscape is completely exposed, so on a very windy day it can be much tougher than you expect. If you can, pick a day without too much wind.
And bring snacks
You’ll be walking for hours and there isn’t much along the route.
There is one small detour where you’ll spot a tiny sign that simply says “CAFE.” That’s one of the few places along the way where you can stop for something to eat or drink, and there’s also a bathroom.
And one more thing: at some point, you’ll have to cross a river
Depending on the conditions, you may need to take your shoes and socks off and walk through the water.
So yes: proper hiking shoes, comfortable clothes, a windbreaker, something warm, plenty of water and snacks are the way to go.
Cuckmere Haven: a must
Cuckmere Haven is where the River Cuckmere meets the English Channel, creating this incredibly beautiful landscape where the river winds its way through the hills before reaching the sea, with the Seven Sisters cliffs rising behind it.
It’s probably one of the most photographed views in this part of England. And it’s also one of those places where you just sit down for a while and do absolutely nothing. You watch the sea. Listen to the wind. See the animals grazing. Take in all that space and silence.
A full day outside the city, a little bit of countryside, a lot of wind, some wet feet and some pretty spectacular pics.
Honestly? Not a bad way to spend a day.
